North Siargao Travel Guide: What It’s Like To Stay Beyond General Luna
North Siargao at a Glance
| 💙 Best for | Surfers, couples, slow travelers |
| ⛔️ Not ideal for | nightlife and short trips |
| ⏳ Minimum stay | 5 days |
| 🤝 Ideal stay | 10-14 days |
| 🏄♀️ Favourite surf spot | Wantaw Beach |
| ☕️ Favourite cafe | Common Ground |
| 🍜 Favourite restaurant | Chevere |
Most visitors to Siargao base themselves in General Luna but we did the opposite. Instead of spending our two weeks in the island’s famous surf town, we spent ten of our fourteen days in the north of Siargao — and by the end of the trip, we were incredibly glad we did.
Don’t get me wrong, we completely understand the appeal of General Luna. The cafés are great, the restaurants are great, and the surf culture is unparalleled. But if you’re like us and prefer quieter lineups, fewer crowds, scenic motorbike rides, and places that still make you feel like “Aha! so this is local life”, then North Siargao might also be for you.
After spending two weeks exploring the island, surfing almost every day, and basing ourselves in Pilar, we think that we discovered a side of Siargao that many visitors never experience.
In this guide, we’ll share what it’s actually like to stay in North Siargao, whether we’d do it again, our favourite places to eat and surf, and how it compares to staying in General Luna.
Table of Contents
- Where is North Siargao?
- Why We Chose To Stay In North Siargao
- What It’s Actually Like Staying in Pilar
- Is Pilar right for you?
- The Side of Siargao Most Visitors Miss
- Our Favourite Places in North Siargao
- North Siargao vs. General Luna: Which Is Right For You?
- Would We Stay In Pilar Again?
- Planning Your North Siargao Trip
- Things We Wish We’d Known Before Staying In North Siargao
- FAQ
- Final Thoughts
Where is North Siargao?
When most travelers think of Siargao, they picture General Luna – the island’s lively surf town on the southeast coast. But head north and you’ll discover a very different side of the island.
North Siargao generally refers to the municipalities of Pilar, Pacifico (San Isidro), Burgos, and Santa Monica. Depending on where you’re staying, it’s around a 45-minute to 1.5-hour motorbike ride from General Luna.
While many visitors explore the north as a day trip, we chose to base ourselves there for ten days and quickly realised that it’s much more than a quick stop between attractions.
Expect quieter beaches, uncrowded surf breaks, scenic coastal roads lined with coconut palms, local cafés and restaurants, and easy access to some of Siargao’s best natural attractions, including the Magpupungko Rock Pools, Alegria Beach, and the island’s northern coastline.
If you’re looking for a slower pace of life without sacrificing great surf, good coffee, and plenty of places to explore by motorbike, North Siargao could be the perfect base.
Interested in our Siargao itinerary where we go into more detail on Pilar? Read our 2 week itinerary here.
Why We Chose To Stay In North Siargao
We originally came for Pacifico – mainly for surf and quieter lineups.
But once we started planning properly, we found that we also wanted some degree of comfort – good WiFi, AC, a private room, space to work, and somewhere we could actually slow down instead of moving every couple of nights.
Pacifico ticked the surf box but was out of budget for what we wanted, so we widened the search and ended up in Pilar at Nogs Homestay – which had everything we needed, plus breakfast, coffee, refill water, and river views with kayaks.
What It’s Actually Like Staying in Pilar
I am not going to lie when we arrived in General Luna at 7am and had to hop on a motorbike to go 50 mins north to Pilar (with our packs!!) I was questioning all of our life decisions.
But once we arrived at Nogs I chilled out – the place is big and peaceful, the owners are warm and welcoming, and the room was clean and cool.
Pilar itself is very local and residential. That’s part of its charm, but it also means everything – surf, cafés, dinner – requires a short ride (5–15 minutes).
It’s not a walk-everywhere base. It’s a “ride-everywhere” base.
Is Pilar Right For You?
You’ll Love Pilar If…
You’re in search of quieter surf breaks, local experiences, scenic motorbike rides, and a comfortable place to work and relax between adventures. If you’re the type of traveler who enjoys slower mornings, doesn’t mind driving 10-15 minutes for a good coffee, and values space and authenticity over being in the centre of the action, there’s a good chance you’ll love Pilar too. It’s especially well suited to surfers, remote workers, couples, and slow travellers who want to experience a different side of Siargao.
You Might Struggle In Pilar If…
You want everything on your doorstep. There aren’t rows of cafés, restaurants, or bars within walking distance, and having a motorbike is almost essential. We also think it’s worth knowing that this is a real local community, not a tourist enclave. That means early morning roosters, occasional all-day karaoke sessions, and the normal sounds of daily life. None of that bothered us, but if you’re looking for complete peace and quiet or resort-style convenience, Pilar may feel a little too remote.
You Should Stay Elsewhere If…
Nightlife, socialising, and having endless food options are priorities, you’ll probably be happier in General Luna. Likewise, if you’re visiting Siargao for just a few days, staying closer to the airport and the island’s main attractions often makes more sense. For travellers who love the idea of North Siargao but want cafés, restaurants, and surf within walking distance, Pacifico strikes a great balance between convenience and the slower pace that makes the north so special.
The Side of Siargao Most Visitors Miss
The biggest surprise of our time in Siargao was how different the north felt from General Luna.
After ten days in Pilar, returning south genuinely felt like arriving on a different island. General Luna was busier, more developed, and more clearly shaped by tourism. The north felt more like life simply continuing with visitors passing through.
Neither is better but they’re undeniably different.
In the north, daily life felt more visible – kids cycling home from school, neighbors gathering outside their houses after dinner for a debrief, and people out working either on the sea or on the land. Tourism existed, but it wasn’t the centre of everything.
Some of our favourite memories came from afternoon motorbike rides through small barangays, stopping whenever something caught our attention — a roadside stall, a quiet beach, or a local game of basketball in full swing.
One of the most memorable moments was being invited to our homestay’s fiesta celebration. The entire community gathered to eat, sing karaoke, and celebrate. It was something we would never have experienced had we stayed only in General Luna.
We also found that the best surf sessions often came from casual conversations – like a café owner recommending a break we hadn’t heard of, which ended up becoming one of our favourites on the island.
General Luna absolutely has its own magic. But the north gave us the feeling of being in the island, not just visiting it.
Our Favourite Places in North Siargao
We spent most of our time surfing, eating, and exploring by motorbike, so these were the places that became part of our routine.
Surfing 🏄♀️
- Pacifico Beach: A long palm-lined stretch of coast with a laid-back surf town behind it. The main break, Big Wish, offered consistent left-hand waves with far fewer people in the water than General Luna. It became our go-to surf spot.
- Wantaw Beach: A quieter break we found through locals that quickly became a favourite. The atmosphere was relaxed, the lineup was mostly local surfers, and the sunsets here were some of the best we saw on the island.
We go into more detail on how we focused on progressing our surfing in Northern Siargao in our surf progression guide here.
Where We Ate Most Often 🍜
- Chévere was our favourite restaurant in the north. Great atmosphere, excellent Venezuelan food, plenty of vegetarian options, and homemade kombucha.
- The Hub by Lokal Lab in Burgos was a gem. We loved it here because the food was wonderful – it was traditional Filipino but with their own flare. However, it’s also a community kitchen and social enterprise – they hire local Siargao people, their menu is farm to table, all locally grown ingredients, and they sell locally made crafts.
- Cerveza was also great. There’s friendly staff, affordable traditional Filipino and western food, and a fun community atmosphere with movie nights and karaoke.
Our Favourite Cafés ☕️
The café scene in the north is smaller than General Luna, but still excellent.
- Manu Brew has a laid-back surf-town feel with bamboo interiors, plenty of seating, and a small surf shop tucked away at the back. We only stopped in for coffee, but it was consistently good and quickly became one of our favourite morning stops.
- Cabanas became our go to after a surf at Wantaw as it’s located directly across from entrance. It has reliable Wi-Fi, great iced coffees, and surprisingly good pizza if you’re looking to turn a coffee stop into lunch.
- Common Ground was our favourite overall find. Hidden away from the main road, this café and guesthouse feels like a little jungle retreat. The coffee, smoothies, and brunch were all excellent.
Things To Do Beyond Surfing 🏝️
Magpopongko Rock Pools in Pilar were one of the standout natural attractions — best visited at low tide when the pools are clear and swimmable.
Pilar River (sometimes called the Maasin River) offered a quieter change of pace, especially by kayak through mangroves and palm-lined stretches.
But honestly, our favourite activity was hopping on our motorbike with no plan, stopping whenever something caught our eye.
Further north, Little Hawaii viewpoint offers one of the island’s best coastal views, and Alegria Beach is a peaceful stop that feels far removed from the busier south.
Other Places We’d Explore Next Time
Even after two weeks on Siargao, there were still a few places we didn’t manage to visit. At the top of our list for next time are Taktak Falls, the island’s only waterfall, and the famous Maasin River Swing. We also skipped the popular Tri-Island Hopping Tour to Daku, Naked, and Guyam Islands. Several people recommended it, although a local told us that if we were already planning to island-hop in El Nido, we wouldn’t be missing out on too much.
North Siargao vs. General Luna: Which Is Right For You?
After spending ten days in the north and four days in General Luna, our biggest takeaway was that neither is better – they simply offer very different experiences.
North Siargao is quieter, more local, and better suited to slow travel and surfing without crowds. General Luna is more social, more developed, and easier for short stays.
If we had only a few days on Siargao, we’d stay in General Luna.
If we had a week or more, we’d split our time.
If we were prioritising surf and slow travel, we’d choose the north.
Would We Stay In Pilar Again?
Absolutely.
Pilar ended up being the perfect base for the type of trip we wanted. It sat right between General Luna and the northern surf towns, allowing us to experience both without paying the higher accommodation prices in either.
Having a motorbike was key. We surfed in Pacifico most days, explored the north at our own pace, and occasionally headed to General Luna for dinner or sunset. Instead of trying to squeeze everything into day trips, we could experience different parts of the island whenever we felt like it.
What we loved most was the local feel. We weren’t surrounded by tourists – we were surrounded by people going about their daily lives, and every now and then we got to be part of it. Those were some of our favourite memories from Siargao.
For around $19 per night, we had a private room with AC and an ensuite bathroom, plus breakfast, unlimited coffee, great communal spaces, and reliable Wi-Fi. For us, it offered far better value than staying in either Pacifico or General Luna on the same budget.
That said, Pilar won’t be for everyone. If nightlife is a priority, or you don’t plan on renting a motorbike, you’ll probably be happier elsewhere. And because it’s a local village, don’t expect silence – there are roosters, karaoke sessions, and the usual sounds of daily life. Most of the time we loved that. Occasionally, when trying to read a book in the afternoon, not so much. 🤣
Planning Your North Siargao Trip
Which Area Should You Choose to Stay in?
Choose Pilar if: you want a comfortable base, lower accommodation costs, and don’t mind riding a motorbike to surf, cafés, and restaurants.
Choose Pacifico if: surfing is your priority and you want cafés, restaurants, and accommodation within easy reach.
Choose Burgos if: you want complete peace and don’t mind sacrificing convenience.
How Long Should You Stay?
We spent 14 days on Siargao – 10 in Pilar and 4 in General Luna – and wouldn’t change a thing.
If you only have 4-5 days, I’d stay in General Luna and explore the north on a day trip.
If you have a week or more, I’d strongly recommend splitting your time between the two.
How Do You Get To North Siargao?
We landed in Siargao airport and then hopped in one of the shared vans for 400 PHP (~$7) right outside the arrivals area to get to General Luna.
From General Luna, we rented a motorbike and we drove north right away.
If you’re not comfortable with carrying your luggage on the bike, you could organize a private van through your accommodation or negotiate with a tricycle driver.
When Should You Go?
We visited in May and, for our style of travel, it felt like the sweet spot. The waves were approachable for beginner-intermediate surfers, the weather was mostly sunny, and the island felt relaxed without being empty.
Mar-May is typically the driest time of year. June-July offer smaller waves but higher risk of typhoons. Aug-Nov is peak surf season, but that really only matters if you’re very advanced in my opinion, and then Dec-Feb is wet season.
Things We Wish We’d Known Before Staying In North Siargao
- Distances look short on the map but you’ll spend more time on your motorbike than you think.
- Most cafés and restaurants are clustered around Pacifico.
- Having your own transport makes a huge difference.
- North Siargao feels significantly quieter after dark than General Luna.
- Tides matter for almost every activity – check them regularly.
- The island experiences regular blackouts for sometimes hours at a time – if you’re a digital nomad, make sure your accommodation has a back up
- Karaoke is not an occasional event – it’s part of daily life. 🤣
FAQ
1. Is Pilar a good place to stay in Siargao?
If you are on a budget, looking for comfort, are planning to rent a motorbike, want access to northern surf spots, and are not as focused on going to Siargao for the cafe and restaurant scene, then Pilar is a wonderful place to stay.
If you want more options and nightlife, have a higher budget and still want to stay in the north – stay in Pacifico.
2. Is North Siargao worth visiting?
Absolutely! I would go as far as saying that you won’t have experienced Siargao in its fullest unless you visit North Siargao.
The North offers a glimpse into local life more so than in General Luna as well as access to some of the island’s most beautiful nature spots and things to do outside of surfing although you can still find world class breaks, surf culture, coffee culture, and tasty restaurants to enjoy.
3. How far is Pilar from General Luna?
Pilar is about 45-50 mins by motorbike from General Luna.
4. Can you stay in Pacifico instead of General Luna?
Yes! Pacifico is a great alternative to General Luna if you still want access to surf, coffee shops, and restaurants but at a cheaper price.
There are many accommodation options for Pacifico ranging from budget to luxury.
Some of my favourite include:
- Budget: La Finca Boutique Hostel
- Mid-range: Yapak Beach Villas
- Luxury: Trogon’s Perch
5. Is North Siargao good for first time visitors?
Yes if you’re not as worried about staying in the heart of the tourism hub and are curious about island life.
If you’re a first timer and only have a few days (less than 5) on the island, then it might be a smarter move to stay in General Luna – you have access to cloud9, restaurants, cafes, and you’re closer to the airport.
Final Thoughts
North Siargao isn’t the version of Siargao most travelers plan for, but it offers a slower, more local experience of the island that’s easy to miss if you stay only in General Luna.
For us, it ended up being the most memorable part of the trip – not because it was polished or trying to be the next “Bali of the Philippines,” but because it didn’t try to be anything at all. It was simply North Siargao, exactly as it is.
Thanks for reading our North Siargao travel guide! We hope you’ll get to explore this area and love it just as much as us.
Cheers and safe travels,
Julie & Harry
If you’re headed to the Philippines, you might also find our other guides helpful:
Read about how we progressed our surfing in Siargao plus our fav surf spots on the island here
Read our 2 week Siargao itinerary here
Read our guide on getting a visa for the Philippines here
Read our guide to Kawasan Falls Canyoneering here
Read our guide to snorkeling the Sardine Run in Moalboal here
Read our guide to hiking Osmeña peak here
Read our guide to finding the best Lechon in Cebu here
Read our guide to traveling the Philippines without cash here